|
| |
Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge
13-14 May 2005
|
Between Glen Brittle and Sligachan, the Traverse of the Cuillin ridge
involves about 10,000ft of ascent and descent. Each section of the ridge
demands attention and the expedition is long and strenuous.
The Traverse was completed, on our first attempt, from South to North starting at Gars-bheinn
and included every peak on the Main Ridge plus Sgurr Alistair, finishing
on Sgurr nan Gillean. The main features were the Thearlaich Dubh Gap,
the descent of Sgurr Thearlich, the ascent of Sgurr MhicCoinnich by Kings
Chimney, the Inaccessible Pinnacle, the tops of Sgurr MhicCoinnich, the
tops of Bidean Druim nan Ramh and the South-West Face of the Bhasteir
Tooth by Naithsmith Route.
Having being told that preparation was the key to a successful first
attempt at the Traverse, as many sources of information as possible were
collected and a guide compiled for ease of reference on the ridge. Links
to the sources can be found below.
The lack of water is a problem on the Traverse. This was solved by melting snow gathered from the small patches that were left in
crevices on the Ridge.
Expedition members were Jonathon and David.
Further photographs are available
here. |
 |
|
 |
Day 1
Glen Brittle - Gars-Bhein - Thealaich Dubh Gap
After setting off from Glen Brittle campsite at about
3:30 in the morning, the main Coire Lagan path was easily followed in
the dark. As we made our way past Coir' a' Ghrunnda, the light of the dawn
started to herald in a fantastic day of weather. Eigg, Rhum and Muck
were now visible and the way to Gars-Bhein clear. The top was
reached at about 6:30 and it was a welcome relief after the hard toil of
the climb up. Our first view of the whole Ridge, as we came to the
crest, was truly memorable but a bit daunting. A group of climbers
were met on the summit who had bivied the night before but had been delayed
at the start due to difficulties in navigation in Choir' a' Ghrunnda.
|
  |
|
The first sectioh of the Ridge posed no problems as
we kept to the crest of Sgurr a' Choire Bhig and then onto Sgur Nan Eag.
Caisteal a' Garb-choire was circumnavigated on the right side and good
scrambling lead to Bealach Coir' an Lochain.
The approach to the first climbing section, the
Thealaich-Dubh gap, was steep but with plenty of good holds. A short
abseil took us down to the rock bridge in the gap. The way up the opposite wall was quite
obvious with a steep and polished chimney groove. Climbing the groove was
entertaining but not desperate in the ideal conditions.
|
  |
Thealaich Dubh Gap - Sgurr Mhic Coinniich -
Innaccessible Pinnacle.
Above the gap we headed for the top of the Great
Stone Shoot and the summit of Sgurr Alastair.
The guidebooks all mentioned that care should be
taken on the descent of Sgurr Thearlich. The Ridge was followed to a
broad promontory with sheer drops on all sides. The abundance of abseil
slings confirmed our choice to abseil from this point. Below the abseil, easier scrambling lead to the Bealach Mhic Coinnich.
|
 |
|
The climb of Kings Chimney to the top of Sgurr Mhic
Coinnich was the climbing highlight and not to be
missed by using the traverse of Collies Ledge. The corner is climbed on good
holds and an undercut before pulling over onto the summit. |
 |
|
An Stac was climbed by following the crest of the
ridge giving excellent scrambling over good clean rock and a ramp then
taken to the foot of the Innaccessible Pinnacle.
A few people were roping up at the bottom so we
politely asked if they would mind if we jumped the queue to solo
the climb. No objections were raised so we set off up the Pinnacle. The
climb is very exposed but at no time did it feel intimidating. It was
nice to find the very reassuring wire sling at the top ready to
take the rope for the abseil. |
 |
Sgurr Bananchdich - Sgurr Thormaid - Sgurr Greadaich Sgurr Mhaidaih
- Bidean Druim Nam Ramh
The central section of the ridge has blurred somewhat
in the memory, my lasting impression is that it took a long time!.
No problems were encountered on the traverse of Sgurr Bananchdich
and the tricky traverse on the ascent of Thormaid was
avoided. The descent from Sgurr Thormaid took us to the Three Teeth which
were passed on the right hand side.
|
  |
|
Sgurr Greadaich was crossed on the crest of the ridge
along the wonderful knife edge arete between the summits.
The four tops of Sgurr Mhaidaih took us some time with
the two steep sections on the west faces of the Third and Second tops
being taken directly. A steep descent found us on the only grassy
section of the whole ridge, the Bealch na Glaic Moire. After a stop
for the video diary entry, the intimidating Bidean Druim Nam Ramh was
reached.
|
 |
|
The first summit was climbed easily with the use of
a basalt dyke. The gap between the first summit and main summit was then
approached with some trepidation. The ascent of the main summit looked
very tricky so we retraced out steps to the first summit to check we
were still on the right route. After this confirmation, we approached
the gap again and worked out a way up the rock to the main
summit. The descent from the main summit looked just as intimidating as
the ascent, so
an abseil was set up to take us to the belach. In the fading light and
with tiredness setting in, the route to the top of the North peak looked
beyond us so we made the decision to bivuac at this point. Not an ideal
spot, a steep scree slope with little space to stretch out but it felt
like this was the best thing to do. Bivi bags and warm clothes were donned
and we attempted to get some sleep. |
 |
Day 2
An Caisteal - Sgurr na
Bhairnich- Bruach na Frithe- Bhasteir Tooth Am Bhasteir- Sgurr Nan Gillean,
Six hours later, after a cold and sleepless night, we were met by a fantastic dawn.
Patches of mist lay in the corries below us but with clear skies above. Spirits revived we set
off up
the North peak. This involved the most serious scrambling outside the
recognised climbs on the route. Anywhere else in Britain and parties
would definitely have roped up for this!
A rake on the right side of the summit lead us to the
Bealach Harta.
An Caisteal was approached via a jump across a deep
vertical notch. The descent from An Caisteal was problematic on loose
rock but we managed to avoid the wonderfully named Belly Ledge.
|
 |
|
The long stretch of the ridge across Sgurr na
Bhairnich to the summit of Bruach na Frithe and on to the Bhasteir Tooth
was soon completed. The atmosphere of standing underneath the Tooth has
to experienced to be believed. If either of us had said at this
point " I don't like the look of this" I think we would have given up.
But neither of us did, hoping that the other party would say something
first.
So Jonathon set off to lead Naismith's route. We attempted it in two
pitches - the first a traverse to the crack at the right end of
the face and then the cracked wall itself. The suituation on the crack
is sensational
with great exposure but we were mightily relieved to have got the last
climb over with.
The ascent of Am Bhasteir involved some short but
steep climbing but we were soon on the summit and comparing notes on the Cuillin peaks
we had climbed with a group of walkers in preparation for an guided attempt
at the Innaccessible Pinnacle.
|
 |
|
The final peak of the Traverse, Sgurr Nan Gillean,
was reached by an exposed scramble past the site of the long departed Gendarme to the summit.
Looking back from the last summit on the terrain covered
during the past two days filled us with immense satisfaction. The heady
mixture of magnificent sea and loch views with the thrill of the
scrambling, rock climbing and route finding make this the most memorable
of expeditions.
The Sligachan beckoned with the thought of good food
and a bed. It really doesn't come better than that! |
 |
|
